Rob's Pinball Page

My original 3 Games
CFTBL is now gone, replaced by WCS94 and recently
The Shadow was added too!

I have been working on my fixing up my High Speed 2: The Getaway
machine for the past while. The playfield was sent to Bill Davis to be
touched up and clearcoated. In the meantime, the cabinet needed some
attention. Shown in this picture is a HUGE chunk of wood missing from
the back corner of the cabinet. I haven't attempted to fix it yet. The front
of the cabinet is shown here There were large chunks of wood missing
on these corners as well, but not as bad as the back. I spent alot of time
filling, sanding and repainting those corners. There are also 3 holes I filled,
2 small ones you can see on one side of the coin door and a loonie sized
hole on the other side which camouflaged really well once the touchup was
done. The coin door was repainted, but 2 'user installed' rivets in the centre
of the door were left in place. Some moron mounted a bigger slam tilt switch
in the center of the door. That same moron undoubtedly drilled the holes and
damaged the cabinet by poor means of handling. I also repainted the backbox
sides which is shown here. The artwork was ok, but the surrounding black areas
were scraped, gouged and scuffed. I masked off the artwork and re-sprayed
them with a gloss black.

Now I am by no means an expert in wood repair, but this image
shows the before and after shots of the cabinet edge repair I did.
I used cut pieces of a paint stir stick and lots of white glue to rebuild
the corner. Not perfect, but much better than before.

Replace leg levelers, replace balls, replace 3 yellow narrow push targets, replace all
playfield lights with #47, replace general illumination connectors (j120, j121), weld right
phurba ramp, replace burnt pins on transformer molex connector, unbend and paint coin
door, replace all major flipper components, repair inner sanctum playfield wear, replace
black rubbers with white, hand clean every single playfield part including ball guides, hand
clean legs, replace phurba springs, replace 1 phurba coil, replace battlefield kicker coil,
weaken VUK lower spring, replace wall target spring, repair worn lever on wall target
assembly, rebuild battlefield drop target assembly, re-align shooter lane coil bracket, repair
left slingshot chip at top, repair plastics under battlefield including custom creation of new
lexan parts, rebuild yellow drop target assembly, replace foam on lockdown bar, vacuum
and clean cabinet inside with damp rag, repair and paint wood chip on backbox edge, minor
other cabinet touchups, lubricate slingshot hinges, replace leg bolts, straighten bent battlefield
lower right post, repair factory(?) cross-threaded tnut at back corner of playfield, filled gouges
and repainted inside cabinet walls, clean and wax playfield, replace mylar patches under
battlefield (2), mylar under blue ramp flaps, replace left and right ramp clear lexan shields,
replace switch on left phurba ramp (right exit) with long arm switch........ probably more, I
just don't remember right now. Now you know why I needed 5 weeks to do this.

WCS94 Pictures
Before rebuilding

WCS94 Pictures
After rebuilding

WCS94 Purchased from Canadian Coin Machines in Burnaby BC, worse shape than expected

Side of cabinet Seems to be in good shape
Side of head     Looks ok to me
Playfield picture Dirty, soccer ball is gouged
Upper playfield  Many broken plastics,  chipped crease
Front cabinet      The legs look worse in real life
Lower playfield Both slings broken
Original display   Lots of burn in
Display test        Faded, looks better than before.

Saucers were sanded and re-sealed. Legs were
painted. New plastics, display, rubbers, flippers etc.
The travel insert was touched up and mylared over.
GI connectors were replaced because
the originals were badly burned.

GI Connectors New display Travel insert Cabinet side
Inside cabinet New legs? Head Playfield low angle
Cabinet front Right saucer Above Playfield Left Saucer
Jet bumpers Assist Saucer Under playfield

WCS94 Left Ramp U-Turn Repair And Reinforcement

I read a post on RGP today about a fellow pinhead who bought a WCS94 ramp assembly from
ebay. I read the ad and the seller claimed there were no breaks or chips, but indeed there
were. Just above the left ramp diverter, there is a U-bend in the ramp and it had a rather large hole in it.
Out of curiosity, I checked my ramp and found it to be cracked in that same spot! It certainly wasn't
cracked several months ago when I shopped the game.

Not good! However this doesn't have to be a problem. I bought a sheet of stainless steel several weeks ago
just in case I needed to fix something like this. I cut a strip of stainless steel using tin snips, which is difficult,
but not impossible to do. This strip was then shaped to fit the outside part of the U-bend.

Here is a picture of the vertical crack
Hand cut and hand shaped stainless steel

It maybe took 20 minutes to get it to the point where I was satisfied enough with the fit to install it.
Installation was done using double sided adhesive rubber tape. It is thinner than adhesive foam tape
and VERY sticky. Here are 2 pictures of the installed guard.

Installation just finished
Installation with diverter in place

The leading edge of the guard sits behind the diverter, but
does not interfere with its operation at all.

Twilight Zone Ramp Reinforcement

I believe that much of the cracks that form in plastic ramps are
caused by 'flexing' of the side walls when the balls hit them. Many
ramps are protected with metal flaps, but this does nothing to
prevent the outward flexing that can cause cracks in the corners.
Ramp guards and switch mounts are only held in place by tapping
screws which seem to strip loose after time. Why not kill 2 birds with
one stone, so to speak? In the pictures below, the tapping screws
on the left TZ ramp have been replaced with screws, locknuts and
washers. Not only will these parts not come loose during gameplay,
but the ramp sides do not flex, greatly reducing the chance of cracks forming

Bottom of the ramp Top of the ramp


I can be contacted at: rebel_heart@sasktel.net